Sunday 31 August 2014

Ziggity Mug Rug Tutorial ~ John from the Fat Quarterly Team



John from Fat Quarterly joins us with a quick and easy tutorial for the little “mini quilts” sweeping the sewing blog scene.
Don’t forget, we have issues of Fat Quarterly available for purchase in the shop. Each issue is full of original patterns and project ideas, articles and interviews. The talented sewists behind Fat Quarterly have joined us with a series of great posts, from their Guest Fat Quarter Packs to the ‘Fit for a Princess!’ Picnic Quilt tutorial and the Stepping Stones Block.
Enjoy John’s tutorial and join in the Mug Rug craze with your own Ziggity Mug Rug…
Greetings, Sew,Mama,Sew! readers! I’m John Adams and I blog over at Quilt Dad. I’m also a member of theFat Quarterly team, and we’re thrilled that Fat Quarterly is now available in the SMS shop. We hope that you’ll give our e-zine a try!
Today, I’m excited to share a little mug rug tutorial that I wrote especially for all of you in the Sew,Mama,Sew!community. “What’s a mug rug?,” you might be asking. To catch up on all things mug rug, check out Erin’s wonderful Mug Rug Madness posts. OK, ready to get started?
The Ziggity Mug Rug
Supplies:
  • 16 – 2″ wide strips of scraps, each 5″ long
  • Approx. 7″ x 13″ backing fabric
  • Binding
You’re going to start with a bunch of scraps, cut into 16 – 2″ wide strips. I used “Kingdom,” a soon-to-be-released line by Jessica Levitt for Windham Fabrics. Make sure that the strips are at least about 5″ long or so. Separate the strips into two sets of eight strips each.
With one of your sets of eight, pair up two of the strips and sew them together in the same manner in which you would sew binding strips together. That is, align them perpendicular to one another with right sides together as shown above. Sew the strips together with a diagonal seam from the bottom left corner to the top right corner of the overlapping section. Trim the excess fabric using a quarter inch seam and press the seam open.
Repeat this step with the remaining three pairs, creating four sewn strips containing a diagonal seam.
Repeat these steps with the other set of eight strips, but (***and this is important***) arrange the strips so that the strip on top extends off to the left, instead of to the right as you did with the first set. Because of this, your diagonal seam should extend from the bottom right to the top left of the overlapping section.
This will result in four more sewn strips containing a diagonal seam, but the diagonal seam should appear as a mirror image to the ones sewn from the first set.
Arrange the strips alternating strips from your first and second sets so that the diagonal seams create a zig-zag effect. Match the seams as shown in the picture above and sew the strips together.
Sew all eight strips together to create your mug rug top.
Your mug rug will now measure 12.5″ in length. Trim the width as desired. I trimmed mine down to 6.5″ wide. Baste, quilt, and bind the mug rug with a backing and binding fabric of choice.
The picture above shows the detail of how I quilted my mug rug. I stitched 1/4″ on the inside of all seams for a nice graphic design.
Here’s another version of the Ziggity Mug Rug made with “From Little Things” by Sarah Fielke for Lecien. Notice how I used fewer strips but added a fussy cut square to the top of the design. Feel free to customize the design to incorporate your own design elements! Another variation might be to offset the seams so that they don’t exactly line up.
I made a pieced back for this one and free-motion quilted it in an all-over pattern.
I hope you enjoyed this mug rug tutorial. If you make a Ziggity Mug Rug, we’d love to see it! Please be sure to add it to the Fat Quarterly Flickr group.
Thanks to Kristin and the Sew,Mama,Sew! team for hosting this tutorial, and for being such great supporters of Fat Quarterly!

Tuesday 26 August 2014

Dashwood Studio

Petite Street: available now

petite-signature
wendykendalldesigns.com
Wendy’s clean, graphic approach to design mixes playful patterns and textures with strikingly modern colour palettes. ‘Petite Street’ shows off her naïve hand drawn style mixed with geometric patterns creating a cool, modern collection, which will appeal to both children and adults alike.← back to collections

Thursday 21 August 2014

Bound Edge Quilt Coasters Tutorial

Neat coasters! Please follow the link for instructions.

http://flossieteacakes.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/bound-edge-drinks-coaster-tutorial.html?m=1




http://flossieteacakes.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/bound-edge-drinks-coaster-tutorial.html?m=1

Perfect for practising quilting.

Tuesday 19 August 2014

Holiday Bauble Coaster

SEWING IDEAS

Holiday Bauble Coaster



Introduction: 
This shabby-chic coaster set is perfect for decorating for the holidays in a way that isn't too over-the-top. The bright colors are happy, and the ornament shapes are uniquely Christmas time. Erin Schlosser of Schlosser Designs has created this whimsical set specially for Elna!

Time: 2 hours

Approximate Size: Makes a set of (4) 4 3/4" square coasters

Elna Supplies Required:
  • Elna eXpressive 900 Sewing Machine
  • Open Toe Satin Stitch Foot (F2)
  • Convertible Free Motion closed toe foot
  • Bobbin
  • Blue Tip Needles
Other Supplies Required:
Fabric:
  • (1) Fat Quarter fabric for Coaster front
  • (1) Fat Quarter for Coaster back (or use 4- 5" squares)
  • (4) Coordinating Charm Squares (5" square fabric pieces)
  • (1) Small scrap (5" square) for ornament caps
  • (2) 2 1/2" x width of fabric strips for binding
Notions:
  • 12" square piece of low loft cotton batting
  • 10" square of fusible web (Heat 'n Bond Lite or Steam A Seam)
  • 12" square of tear-away stabilizer
  • Fabric Marking Pen
  • Temporary fabric spray adhesive

Sewing Instructions:
  1. Cut out the following pieces:
    - (4) 5" squares for coaster fronts
    - (4) 5" squares for coaster backs
  2. Place coordinating charm squares on tear away stabilizer. To make it easier to add decorative stitching, line them all up on a single sheet. Mark a horizontal center line on each of the squares.

  3. Attach Open Toe Satin Stitch Foot (F2). Use the following figure to find the stitches and stitch widths used to stitch down the center line of the squares. Stitch the center stitch first, then either side:



    For the stitch stacking on the left use Heirloom Stitch # 7 in the center and Satin Stitch #14 on the right side of the center, and Satin Stitch #15 on the left side.
    For the stitch stacking on the right use Heirloom Stitch #5 in the center and Satin Stitch #19 on either side of the center stitch.
    If you do not have the eXpressive 900, we have provided images of these stitches above so you can choose similar ones. Carefully tear away the stabilizer from the back.

  4. Trace ornament shapes on the wrong (paper side) of fusible web (template provided on the top right of this page). Iron onto the wrong side of the squares just stitched with the decorative stitches. The dashed center line on each pattern piece will line up with the center decorative stitch back. Cut out each ornament shape along the lines.



    Repeat this process with the ornament cap squares. Tear away paper backing, place one ornament(with the cap) on each square and iron into place. It can be centered or asymmetrically placed within the square.
  5. Make a small quilt sandwich with the coaster back (face down), quilt batting, and coaster front (facing up). Use a temporary spray adhesive to hold in place. Use a straight stitch and sew 1/8" inside the shape to secure edges of ornament to the coaster. Switch to the convertible free motion foot and stipple quilt around each ornament.



    Trim to 4 3/4" squares when quilting is completed.
  6. Make binding and attach to the edge of each coaster using a favorite method of choice.
Click on the link for more about Elna!

Friday 8 August 2014

Brilliant Binding


I have given you a basic and very, very simple way of joining up the ends of your bindings... 
Now I have a different way for you. It may seem very fiddly at first, but the results are wonderful... it is worth persevering because no-one will be able to find your join with this method!!! There should be a 'printer friendly version here
1. You will need to leave good long tails at both the start and the end of your binding strips, the longer the tails the easier the join will be....
2. I recommend 5"... 8" will be perfect... this means that you will start sewing your binding on 5" - 8" down from the start... and finish sewing 5" - 8" before the join end..... thus leaving the tails as in this picture.
3 Pin the start of the binding in place and mark the end with a pin, then lay the other end on top of that and cut it 2 1/2" from the pin... exactly 2 1/2", not even a mouse's whisker more or less!!!
IMPORTANT TO NOTE......
these measurements are for 2 1/2" wide binding only...
IF your binding is only 2 1/4" wide you will trim a 2 1/4" distance... if your binding is 3" you will trim 3"... OK??
4. You can just about see here that there is a 2 1/2" overlap with the start and the end of the binding strip
5... you don't see it there? how about this?
6. Now lay the end of the binding open and flat on the table, my ruler is only there to hold the fabric down for my photo....
7. fold up the quilt to allow you to place the beginning end ON TOP diagonally, just like making a mitre... in fact it is another mytre!!
8.. holding with pins, draw a line from corner to corner....
9. sew it along the marked line... this is a fiddle, just fold your quilt a little bit to allow you to do this. take out the pins....
10. try to see whether it has worked perfectly before you cut anything!!!, if you need to adjust it , unpick the seam and do it again perfectly!.. then trim away the excess triangle... just as when you were joining the binding strips
11.. lay it all flat against the quilt edge and sew with walking foot!!!
That's all there is to it!

Wednesday 6 August 2014

Tommy the Turtle – A Free Motion Quilt Tutorial

 



Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Did you ever have one of those SLOW days?   Days that you don’t even want to get out of your pajamas?  Tommy the Turtle has them all the time–but he knows the secret….
Slow and Steady Wins the Race!
In honor of Tommy – and embracing his motto–let’s stitch a new motif!
TOMMY the TURTLE –THE TUTORIAL –Say that three times fast!
It is helpful when learning any new pattern to use some guidelines.  This helps keep a motif in proportion.  If you are sewing a quilt with squares–no need to draw lines-use the seamlines.
Begin by drawing any size square.  In the sample below, the squares are 3- 1/2 by 3-1/2 inches.
Next, draw a circle in the middle of the square.  I used this ruler – found at an office supply store and drew a 2 -1/4 inch circle.  You could use a cup or a small plate…
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Begin by stitching around the circle (Start where you want the neck to be positioned.)  Then stitch the neck and head into one of the corners of the square.
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Next, travel around the circle and stitch a rounded leg.  Stitch around the circle and close to the previous line of stitching.
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
At the opposite corner, stitch a leg, a curved tail, and another leg before proceeding around “the shell” again.
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Stitch the last “leg” and then cross into the circle.
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Spiral into the center of the shell and stop.
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Next, spiral out – but add a scallop as you go…(this is actually Tammy the Turtle…?)
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
For a boy turtle–simply spiral out and back toward the neck.   Knot off at the base of the neck somewhere.
NOTE--I was unable to find a nice looking way to transition to another turtle–so I knotted off between each turtle.  (For more on knots see HERE and HERE.)
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Make a pair of turtles…
and maybe a baby…
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, Tutorial
Or line them all up in a row…
Tommy the Turtle, Free Motion Quilting, TutorialThe turtle’s shell is an opportunity for creativity.  Add any embellishment here…Give your turtles personality!
Tommy the Turtle would look darling on any border and in the center of any quilt square.  Or–make a pillow or a pin cushion with a single turtle!
TOMORROW–
Check in tomorrow to see a little quilt I made with Tommy the Turtle.  I think I’m going to have it framed!
Lori
MATERIALS
This turtle looks great on Kona cotton from RJKaufman’s New Summer Collection…Stitched with Sulky Rayon thread on top and Aurifil cotton 50 wt in the bobbin on my Bernina 820 without a stitch regulator…
PS… All tutorials, images and information are the property of Lori Kennedy at The Inbox Jaunt and are intended for personal use only.  Feel free to Pin, Blog, Tweet with attribution to The Inbox Jaunt.  For all other purposes, please contact me at lckennedy@hotmail.com.  Thanks!
 http://theinboxjaunt.com/2014/05/13/tommy-the-turtle-a-free-motion-quilt-tutorial/

See Lori's blog for more fantastic inspiration!

Saturday 2 August 2014

My new Juki TL-98P and Swiftquilter



A couple of months ago I bought a Juki TL-98P sewing machine and Swiftquilter quilting frame from Sew Frisco.  In the interests of full disclosure, I'll tell you now that I negotiated a discount on the purchase price in exchange for blog advertising and a couple of blog post reviews.  This is the first one and I'll do another review at around the 6 month mark.  As with all my reviews, I agreed to this on the basis that my review would be completely honest and mention any cons as well as pros.


So, how did I decide to buy the Juki?  I decided I needed a new sewing machine and narrowed my choice of brands down to Bernina (because that's what I had already and what I've sewn on most before), Janome (because that's what most of my real life quilting friends have, and what lots of bloggers have and recommend) and Juki (because lots of bloggers have been raving about their Jukis and I really liked the idea of a fully mechanical sewing machine because I thrash my sewing machine and I don't want it to break down).

Then I started using my Mum's Bernina 440QE, which has a stitch regulator (BSR), for free motion quilting.  BSR is really nice - it means that your stitches are a consistent length and it definitely helps when you're learning to free motion quilt.  I got hooked, and started using Mum's sewing machine every time I needed to free motion quilt something.  I decided that the BSR was so great that I HAD to get a Bernina, even though they are significantly more expensive than any other brand of machine.

To get the throat space I wanted with a Bernina, I needed to go up to the 700 series, so I started saving up for the Bernina 750QE, which retails in New Zealand for $6,999 (by comparison, a Janome 8900 QC retails in New Zealand for $5,499).  (Yes, I cry a little bit inside every time I read American sewing machine prices). And then, I needed to do some free motion quilting and I didn't have time to go around and use Mum's sewing machine.  So I used my little, basic, 25 year old Bernina which definitely does not have BSR.  And do you know what?  My stitches were still pretty consistent.  I quilted a woodgrain pattern, which I hadn't done before,  and I didn't have any issues with the quilting.  My tension was perfect.  All these things which I thought the BSR was doing for me, I was capable of doing myself.  I didn't NEED BSR.  I had just needed practice and the BSR gave me the ability do a nice job while I was still practising.  (By the way, I don't think this is something unique to me.  If you have BSR and always use it, try turning it off, just for a test.  I think you might be surprised.)

That opened up the sewing machine options for me again.  I was still interested in the Juki but unwilling to buy one sight unseen, and the only Juki dealer (Sew Frisco) is in Auckland.  When I got sent to work in Auckland for a few weeks, I decided to take the opportunity to check out a Juki for myself.  It was really really nice, and with a price of $1,995, seemed like great value for money compared to the other options.

Now, I will say in defence of the Bernina and Janome machines that they do much more than the Juki.  The Juki is straight stitch only and the Bernina and Janome machines have all kinds of stitches, and you can do embroidery, and they are computerised and basically a whole bunch more sophisticated than the Juki.  BUT, I don't use almost any of that stuff now and I couldn't see that I would use it in the future.  Basically, to get the large throat space, you have to pay for a whole lot of other stuff that you may or may not use.

Now I've had the Juki for a few weeks, and I love it.  I've used it on the quilting frame, for free motion quilting off the frame, for piecing, for straight line quilting, and to make a small bag (including installing a zip).  It has handled all of those tasks really well and is basically a joy to use.  By the way, as far as I can tell, the Juki TL-98P is exactly the same as the TL-98Q available in the US, except that it runs on New Zealand voltage.  An equivalent to the Juki TL-2010Q isn't available here, but I think the only difference is that the TL-2010Q has a speed control and the TL-98 does not.

So I thought it would be interesting to go back to my post on the sewing machine I've been using for most of my quilting life, my Bernina 802 Sport.  I made a bit of a shopping list of features I was looking for in my next machine:

- large throat space.  Check - the Juki TL-98P has 9" of space between the needle and the right hand upright.

- automatic needle down.  This is pretty much a given on all modern sewing machines, so of course the Juki has it. It's sooooo nice though!

- more speed.  The Juki definitely delivers on this.  I spent most of the time pedal to the metal on my Bernina, but I haven't even touched the top speed on the Juki yet.  From a technical perspective, it does 1500 stitches per minute.  I can confirm that it is FAST.

- knee lift. The Juki has a knee lift which works really well and even clips into the extension table when you're not using it.

One feature which wasn't on my wish list but which I really really love is the automatic thread cutter - you either hit a button on the machine or on the foot pedal and it cuts your thread for you.  Awesome.

Juki
My Bernina 802 Sport next to my Juki TL-98P

There are a couple of downsides to the Juki:

- the Juki only does one thing, straight stitch, but it does it super well.  If you are looking for a general purpose domestic sewing machine, this is not the one for you.  It doesn't have a zig zag stitch for sewing knits, or a blanket stitch for machine appliqué, or anything like that.  I'd say it's best suited to a quilter who already has one sewing machine and is looking to upgrade and get more throat space.  I was planning to keep my Bernina anyway, and I'll be using it whenever I need a zigzag stitch (I like to finish the inside seams of cushions and bags this way for durability).

- the Juki does not have a free arm.  Apart from the lack of zigzag stitch, this makes it unsuitable for sewing most garments.  It also means you'll be going back to your domestic machine for some tasks, like top-stitching around the edge of a small zipper pouch, for example.

- as far as I've been able to tell, you can't get an open toe foot for the Juki.  It would most commonly be used for non straight stitching anyway, so that makes sense, but there are times when it's nice to have a good view of the needle, like when you're sewing on the line for foundation paper piecing, or sewing on a marked line when you're quilting.  I'm going to investigate whether I can get a generic open toe foot that works on the Juki.

- it's a big heavy (11.5kg/25lb) sewing machine.  That makes it awesome to sew on but not terribly portable.  It also doesn't come with a hard cover or travel case (but of course you could buy a generic sewing machine bag if you wanted).

None of these are things which put me off the Juki or mean that I'm disappointed in it.  I just wanted to be clear that it does what it does, and it does it very well, but it doesn't do everything.

Juki

I've used the Juki with Aurifil (it takes a cone, yay) and with Guterman cotton quilting thread and it's handled both of them perfectly.  For free motion quilting I've stuck to the 90/14 and 100/16 Organ needles that came with the machine, but for piecing I've used Schmetz 80/12 Microtex Sharp needles with great success.  I'll continue to experiment with different needles for different applications, but when I'm using the Juki on the Swiftquilter frame, I've discovered that I really do need to stick with the heavier 100/16 needles (after breaking two 90/14 needles in quick succession).

So far I've pretty much stuck to a description of the sewing machine as used in the way that most people would use it - without the Swiftquilter frame.  Even if you're not interested in a frame, it's still a really great machine and I would definitely recommend it.

So, the Swiftquilter frame.  Basically, it's a set up which includes a moving platform that you sit the sewing machine on, a frame with leaders and enders to stretch the quilt out on, so you free motion quilt by moving the sewing machine and not the quilt.  I bought it because I find normal free motion quilting, where you move the quilt under the needle, very hard on my hands, my neck and my shoulders.  I want to do more free motion quilting but I don't because I can't spend too much time doing it or I end up unable to turn my head.

You sit the frame on a table (I had a special extra tall one made so that the controls are at a comfortable height to use when standing and also so I can see where I'm stitching.  The optimal height for your table will depend on your height.)  The basic frame is 72" wide, and the bit that sits on the table is 23" deep.  The frame overhangs the table so in total it is 34" deep.  The highest point of the frame will sit 11" above the table top, and the part which the quilt sits on is 8" above the table top.  Even though the basic frame is 72" wide, really the widest quilt you can quilt on it is 50" wide.  That's because you need extra room at the sides for the platform that the sewing machine sits on.

Juki
The Swiftquilter frame, on my extra tall table.

The frame also comes with an extension, which takes its total width out to 108".  I haven't used the extension yet (and to be honest I'll need to measure to check that my sewing room is even 108" wide!) but hopefully I'll have given it a try by the time my next review rolls around.

I really like the way the platform that the sewing machine sits on moves.  It moves smoothly and freely, but it's got a bit of weight to it (mostly the sewing machine, I guess), which makes it easier (for me, anyway), than something which moves really really easily (I've used long-arms which move at the slightest touch and I found them really hard to control).

I found the frame easy to assemble with the help of the assembly video on Sew Frisco's website.  I did it by myself so it's not like its a two person job or anything like that.  I do quite enjoy assembling flat pack furniture though, so if you absolutely hate things like that you may not enjoy putting the frame together but I still don't think you'd find it difficult.  I know some people disassemble their frames and put them away when they're not using them, but I'm leaving mine up all the time.

The frame can conceptually be used with any large throat sewing machine, but it's recommended for use with Juki TL-98P.  As you'll see if you watch the video, it comes with a handle that screws onto the machine which has controls which plug in so you can control the machine from the handle (no foot pedal needed).

With a lot of help from my sister, I made a video which explains how I load a quilt onto the frame and set it up for quilting.  Hopefully it will give you a good sense of how the frame works, because it would be quite hard to describe in a meaningful way in writing.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for the actions of my eyebrows in this video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v5_201RQgg&feature=player_embedded

Ok well I hope you enjoyed the video (or at least had a good laugh)!

If there is anything else you want to know about the Juki and/or the Swiftquilter, let me know and I'll try to answer your question.

Follow on Bloglovin